Fredeen Blades

hey Graham i got a new knife almost ready to show you but unfortunately i'm having trouble with something. I'm having trouble getting nice crisp transitions from my flat(along the spine) to my primary bevel. I've talked to trent about this and he explainded to me that while its not imposible its very hard and usually requires specific equipment to do well. I noticed you have a few knives with a really nice transition area (http://www.fredeenblades.com/availableblades.htm) the stag hunter and the first knife on that page.

Here is my processes; I forge a near to shape as possible ( wish i could forge the bevels better) then move to my grinder for the rough grind. My grinder is actually a 4x36 wood sander that a glued a piece of plywood to as a platen, I know this is a problem but i use it to grind the flats by laying the knifethe way you show here in the  "rough grind section" (http://www.fredeenblades.com/tutorials.htm).

I then use the grinder to rough the primary bevel, when it looks right I draw file it very carefully and try to assure its as near to flat aspossible. I did not draw file the flat because it seemed to be fairly flat right off the grinder ( I’m thinking now that this might be part of the problem and I might try draw file the flat).

Anyway I then take 120 grit paper use a steel bar a backing and sand the file scratches out very carefully making sure to stay flat. This is where Iam right now but the transition while visible is not as crisp as I was hoping.

I guess I have two questions, can you offer any advice and will the transition be more visible when I sand to a higher grit. I'm stuck and I wouldlove to get this done this weekend.

thanks Jason

Hey Jason,

Sorry I didn't see this sooner. Been busy with some rare time in the shop so I haven't been on the computer as much.

As far as achieving a crisp transition between the flat of the blade and the beveling, you are correct, it can be difficult. Specialized eqiupment is not required, just patience, practice and a very steady hand.

You can easily wash out the crisp line with one or two "off" strokes with sandpaper or a file. After draw filing things should be extremly crisp. If draw filing use a finer cut file before moving to sand paper (like a second cut or smooth cut) to save yourself some sanding and really true things up.

Then when it comes to sanding stick with a very hard and flat backing for the paper. Your steel should be fine. You can run it on the belt sander to flatten it even more if you think it needs it. Its important when sanding to only sand in one direction and perfect the motion so you arent slightly rocking the paper over that transition edge. You might have the most problem with the flat. The flat can usually be really thin and it can be all too easy to slightly "roll" over the transition when sanding the flat. Pay particular attention when sanding this area. Like I said, it only takes one or two "off" strokes to wash things out (and then many many more correct strokes to get things back to where they should be).

120 grit is pretty coarse for trying to get a sharp transition and could be some of the issue. I generally don't draw file so I never start my grit progression that low. 220 is usually the lowest I go and then step up from there. I would say to just keep moving up the grits if things aren't sharp by 500, you are probably inconsistent in your sanding motion. Also, the higher grit you take things, generally the sharper things will appear to be. Things should look pretty good at say 500 grit, but if you take it much higher 1200-1500 grit, it should be even sharper.

Keep at it and the more you sand the more steady and consistant you will get.